On September 10, 2001 I got up early to catch a van ride from a resort in Panama to the Panama City airport. From there I flew, changed planes, flew, changed more planes, eventually flying into Fairbanks, Alaska in the early hours of September 11 th . My mom was up, waiting for me to come in, wanting to hear about my trip. It had been wonderful. There was lots to see, lots to do, and I felt very much at home there. I had gone with Suzan Clark, a friend since we first met working summer jobs in the University of Oregon's summer mail room. Suzan is as stallworth and steady a travel companion as you will ever meet. Long an world traveler, she does not get weirded out, fazed, or bothered by much that is out there in our diverse world. Due to some scheduling snafu, I left Panama the day before she did. After my trip de-brief for my mom, I went to bed about 2 or 3 o' clock in the morning. I was in full, hard, sleep when the phone rang. And rang. Furious, I stormed downstairs...